A neck injury and a VIP barge conversation
A minor neck injury at Climb Festival in London changed the course of a climbing writer’s experience, leading him to the VIP barge to speak with some of the sport’s most accomplished athletes. The accident occurred during a demonstration at a rock gym, meant to showcase skills to a group of fashion journalists. Instead of climbing the walls, the writer was forced to abandon his plans and seek refuge in the VIP area. From there, he launched into a series of conversations with top athletes, turning his personal setback into an opportunity to learn about the next big moves in climbing.
New routes and old challenges
Fay Manners, a British alpinist, has her sights set on the Eiger North Face, where she plans to open a new climbing route with legendary Swiss climber Roger Schäli. Manners described the route as the most difficult and meaningful challenge of her career. The project involves nearly 20 pitches of demanding rock climbing, requiring precision, route-finding skills, and decision-making under pressure. Manners emphasized that the Eiger is a local icon, and her ambition is not just to complete the route but to offer a lasting legacy for future generations of climbers in the region.
Stefano Ghisolfi, an elite Italian sport climber, is pursuing two major projects. One is Ben Moon’s Hubble in the Peak District, a historic route that, when first sent in 1990, was considered the world’s first 5.14c, and is now regarded by some as the first 5.14d. Ghisolfi plans to return to the route, where he previously attempted it during a TNF Vertical Athlete Summit. If Hubble doesn’t go his way this time, he’ll likely return soon. The second project is even more ambitious: he aims to repeat Adam Ondra’s Silence (5.15d) in Norway, one of only five 5.15d routes in the world, none of which have been repeated. Ghisolfi believes he is close to the crux, and he plans to spend several months in Norway working through the route with bouldering training to help him reach the top.
The personal stakes in professional climbs
Manners stressed the emotional importance of her Eiger project. Opening a new route in her home region means more than just personal achievement; it’s about contributing to a climbing community that will benefit from the route long into the future. For her, the route would be a way to connect with local climbers and give back to the place she calls home. Ghisolfi also sees his projects as more than just numbers and technical challenges. While Adam Ondra’s Silence remains the pinnacle in the grade category, Ghisolfi is focused on pushing his own limits and leaving a legacy through his climbing.
These projects, whether they involve the Eiger North Face or one of the world’s most difficult sport routes, reflect the deep personal ambitions and emotional drives that define climbing at the highest level. For Manners and Ghisolfi, the physical challenges are only part of the equation. Their goals are also about connection, legacy, and the pursuit of excellence in a sport that demands everything from those who seek to stand at the top.